Silab has unveiled Metallomia, a patented active ingredient positioned as a detoxifying treatment for menopausal skin. The French manufacturer says the ingredient was developed to address a deficiency in ferritinophagy, the process that controls the release of iron to cells. According to Silab, this deficiency is linked to a shortage of bioavailable iron and to premature skin aging, a phenomenon the company calls metallo-aging.
Mechanism and UV stress
Silab’s modeling work on menopausal skin identified deficient ferritinophagy as a key factor. The company says the condition limits the controlled supply of iron that cells need. UV exposure can worsen the problem: Silab states that UV radiation promotes degradation of iron/ferritin complexes, causing a large, uncontrolled release of iron and significant oxidative stress.
Metallomia is designed to relaunch ferritinophagy in menopausal skin. According to Silab, it facilitates iron provision and relaunches the main epidermal functions. The active also is said to reduce iron/ferritin complexes, which the company links to lower oxidative stress under UV exposure. Silab presents these as targeted mechanisms through which metallo-aging is significantly reduced.
Reported volunteer results
Silab reports results from volunteer assessments. In Caucasian volunteers, skin was described as revitalized from 14 days, with a reinforced skin barrier and a more unified, radiant complexion. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were significantly reduced after 28 days. When Caucasian volunteers applied the ingredient before UV exposure, Silab says it prevented lipid peroxidation, and redness was limited within hours after exposure.
Marshmallow root sourcing
For Metallomia, Silab focused on the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages. The company established a traced supply chain with French partners. It says the supply has been validated against criteria in the European Pharmacopoeia and authenticated by DNA barcoding. To access the root’s mucilage content, Silab developed a specific enzyme-engineering process to extract polyuronides.
Formulation and compliance
Metallomia is recommended for all care products intended for menopausal skin at a dose of 0.5% to 2%. It is supplied as an aqueous solution and is described as easy to formulate. Silab says the ingredient complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural-origin content of 100% under ISO 16128. It also complies with international cosmetics regulations in markets including Europe, the United States, China and Japan, according to the company.